With an abundance of upmarket shops, pubs and restaurants, the Surrey town of Guildford, just a half-hour train ride from London, is a bustling (albeit wallet-draining) destination that’s perfect for a family holiday with teenagers. On the edge of the Surrey Hills National Landscape (formerly AONB), it’s also a convenient base for walks and bike rides over the North Downs. And there are wineries to visit too, with Albury Vineyard just four miles away.
The name Guildford is said to originate from “golden ford”, a golden, sandy crossing of the river Wey. Arriving in town by boat, as I did – possible since the river was made navigable in 1653 – gives a more serene first impression than arriving by railway, or on busy roads lined with multi-storey car parks and offices. The Wey Navigation was one of the first man-made waterways in the UK, over 100 years before the rest of the canal network.
Guildford’s waterway boosted trade links with London and so the town prospered. There are many fine buildings. One of the most photographed is the Guildhall, with its ornate clock. It is the main feature of the hilly cobbled High Street, described by Dickens as the prettiest in England, which is thankfully closed to traffic most of the time.
What’s old?
Guildford’s Norman castle was the only royal castle in Surrey. The 12th-century keep and a few crumbling stone walls are all that remain of what Henry III developed into one of England’s most luxurious royal residences. Surrounding the ruins, the Castle Grounds include flower beds, a bandstand and a bowling green. You can enter the castle keep, from which there are fine views over historic rooftops to surrounding hills (Wed-Sat, 12pm-4.30pm, March-October).
On the High Street, Abbots Hospital is a splendid 17th-century almshouse, still home to “older Guildford folk of modest means”. There are twice-weekly tours until the end of October.
Guildford House, also on the High Street, home to the tourist information centre and art gallery, is worth a visit to see the elm and oak staircase. There are also comprehensive information plaques on many historic buildings throughout the town.
What’s new?
The town is in constant flux, with new building work and improvement schemes. North Street, parallel to the High Street, is in the process of being pedestrianised.
The town’s 50m-long, 10-lane lido, opened in 1933 and rebuilt in 1989, is superb. The water is perfectly clear and the changing rooms modern and clean. It is now open year-round, with the water heated to a fresh 19C. There are plans to add a sauna and plunge pools. Nearby, The Spectrum leisure complex has four indoor pools, bowling alleys and an Olympic-sized ice rink.
The Yvonne Arnaud Theatre is a modern 580-seat arts venue with additional performance space in an adjacent historic mill on the River Wey. Instead of grinding corn the mill now generates hydro-electricity.
Cycle around town on a hired e-bike from the bike-share scheme Beryl, which since 2024 has had a fleet of 300 e-bikes in Guildford.
Illuminate is a winter festival of lights in the castle grounds, from Nov 14 until Jan 1.
Guildford Festival of the Arts runs every autumn, with buildings open to the public, such as The Guildhall, displaying a curated selection of artwork by talented locals.
Do this
Visit the Watts Gallery and Cemetery Chapel, a 10-minute bus ride (number 46) from the railway station. George Frederic Watts and his wife Mary were contemporaries of William Morris. Their work is richly mystical, blending Art Nouveau and Celtic designs with Middle Eastern influences. A gallery of painting and sculpture, their former home and studio and the exquisite Cemetery Chapel designed by Mary Watts, are all open to the public. There is a café and very lovely gift shop too.
Then take to the water with a 40-minute ride on a quiet electric boat along the National Trust-owned Wey Navigation. Trips depart from Dapdune Wharf, a 15-minute towpath walk from the station. At the wharf you can also step on board one of the original wooden barges that travelled between Guildford and London. There is a small café.
Eat here
Theion is a Greek-owned restaurant with two AA rosettes located inside a beamed former chapel. My homemade pitta bread and kopanisti (whipped feta with Aleppo pepper) were delicious; ceviche of sea bream with elderflower vinaigrette arrived topped with delicate flowers. Teenagers might prefer Boring Burger, a few doors down on the opposite side of Chapel Street.
The Long Bar and Grill is a stylish modern venue in Harbour Hotel Guildford with an open kitchen, where executive chef Steve Hubbert oversees a seasonal menu that, in addition to real steaks, includes vegan options such as romanesco “steaks” with spiced pumpkin and cavolo nero.
Drink here
The Royal Oak is an independent pub behind Holy Trinity church with outside pew seating on a cobbled pedestrian lane next to the churchyard’s railings. The 15th-century former rectory has been a pub since 1870. There is a large fireplace, leather armchairs, wooden floorboards and fresh flowers.
The Weyside is a waterside pub with outside seating next to the Wey Navigation. There are blankets for when it’s chilly and sun-block for when it’s sunny, as well as board games.
Shop here
Many of Guildford’s shops are upmarket brands – Charles Tyrwhitt, Farrow & Ball, Le Creuset, Barbour – but Jeffries Passage, just off the High Street, is home to several interesting independents, including The Bear Garden, a soft toy emporium selling brands such as Steiff and Jellycat. Paper Moon bookshop, meanwhile, has a quiet reading room upstairs.
The gift shop at Watts Gallery sells exquisite work by local potters, continuing Mary Watts’s passion for promoting pottery.
Stay here
Guildford Harbour Hotel (doubles from £132) is in a convenient location near the top of the High Street and nearing the end of a £3m renovation. There’s a spa with a sauna, steam room, plunge pool and (very small) outdoor heated pool. The spacious bar and lobby area is a popular meeting space for locals sipping G&Ts and “Surrey negronis”, made with gin from nearby distiller Silent Pool. Breakfast is a buffet rather than table service.
From a resident
Isaac Forknall, a barista at Sorrel Social, came to Guildford to study at the University of Surrey. He liked the town so much he stayed on after graduating. “The people are friendly and I like the general bustle of the place,” he said. “There are lots of independent coffee shops and bars. Also, I’m a runner and within five minutes from home I can be out in the countryside, on Pewley Down, in Chantry Woods or up on The Mount.”
From a visitor
Anna Zug and Benedikt Baron were visiting from Poland, enjoying the castle grounds. Anna said: “We like the quiet atmosphere here, all the shops in the High Street, and the pretty cottages in the nearby villages.”