The words “Ireland” and “summer holiday” have never traditionally gone together. But now, as swathes of European destinations (and parts of the UK) are sweltering in temperatures nudging the forties, it suddenly seems like a great idea.
The Irish version of a heatwave means temperatures around the mid-twenties, a little higher if you’re lucky. And that’s exactly what’s been happening recently – glorious stretches of balmy days, long sunny evenings and a collective urge to leap into the nearest lake, river or sea.
Beaches that beat Barbados
All along the western shore, there are beaches that beat anything I’ve seen in Barbados, hands down. In Connemara, you’ll find blindingly white sands, a backdrop of undulating mountains and water that’s clearer than many a swimming pool.
Spots like Gurteen Beach and Dog’s Bay are ridiculously beautiful when the sun shines, with turquoise water and talcum powdery sand. The only downside is their popularity – but you can always walk over the headland to Trá Mhartog, for a bit more breathing room. And when you’re done, the village of Roundstone is just down the road, for a pint of Guinness and a platter of oysters in O’Dowd’s.
Hundreds of tiny, scenic islands
If the Connemara crowds get too much, then head to one of the hundreds of islands off the west coast. The Aran Islands are a ferry ride (or incredibly scenic 10-minute flight) away.
My favourite is the tiny Inis Oírr, which has its own beer (Inis Beer, also a handy way to remember the pronunciation of the island – inish-eer) as well as a resident dolphin, Dusty, a feisty (slash aggressive) character who swims into the horseshoe bay and has been known to knock phones out of the hands of those who confuse her with Flipper.
Remote rambling
Quieter still are the more remote stretches of Donegal, where they recently recorded the highest ever temperature of 30.6C (though that kind of heat is a rarity). But even if you have to bring a jumper, you’ll be met with bulbous, rugged mountain ranges overlooking the wilds of a coastline smashed by the Atlantic, and flat calm lakes flanked by thick green forests.
While the coastline in West Cork is stunning, leave that to everyone else and head east instead. Ballymaloe House is a gorgeous country estate just a 40-minute drive from Cork Airport, with tennis courts, an outdoor swimming pool with a retro vibe and an excellent restaurant serviced by their nearby organic farm, gardens and cookery school.
Don’t discount the Dublin coast, either. A 20-minute train ride out of the city will get you to pretty seaside villages like Howth, with seafood joints like King Sitric where lobster is hauled out of the pots from over the road, served in a puddle of salty garlic butter. And they’ve got bedrooms upstairs too, overlooking the sea.
Swimming, saunas and cocktails
Down in Dún Laoghaire, you can stay in the swish Haddington House, borrow one of their bikes and cycle down for swims in the Forty Foot (immortalised in Ulysses), before cocktails and pizza on their seaside lawn. There’s a brand new floating sauna in the harbour, too – in case the temperatures aren’t quite as balmy as you’d hoped.
Because of course, no guarantees can be made about the Irish weather – in August, you’re as likely to be wearing a waterproof as you are a swimsuit. But one thing you can be certain of is that the temperatures will never hit the peaks it has lately in the UK. That means that you can head out and actually enjoy the sun, instead of frantically trying to find shade and sleeping with a fan on full blast.
In keeping with this spirit of eternal optimism, there are a rake of outdoor events, gigs and festivals that take place all over the island throughout summer. Alongside all the big-ticket concerts held in Malahide Castle, Trinity College and Slane Castle, there are festivals practically every weekend, from the foodie Cork on a Fork to the boutique music affair Another Love Story, held in the grounds of Killyon Manor.
And this year, the world’s biggest traditional music festival, Fleadh Cheoil na hÉireann, will be held in Belfast for the first time, the streets taken over with buskers and the strains of fiddles and bodhráns spilling out of every pub.
A Belfast entry makes your holiday simpler still, but even flying into one of the airports in the Republic of Ireland is a cinch compared to the huge queues in European ports, and the shambolic nightmare created by the EES system. Fly (or get the ferry) into Ireland, and the Common Travel Area means it’s almost universally stress-free and quick.
Ireland is never going to compete with the guaranteed heat and cheap beers of the continent. But if you’re looking for ruggedly gorgeous landscapes, easy access and a climate that won’t leave you with heat stroke, it’s just the ticket.
How to do it
Ryanair, Aer Lingus and British Airways all fly direct from UK airports to Dublin, Cork, Shannon and Ireland West, with flights at the former starting at £19.99 one way.